Musky lavender and green flower buds project loud at first, but neroli calms it down. There’s a prickly mess of flowers in the middle, then it bottoms out in the woods.
Not sweet enough for me, but I bet it’s nice in the rain.
Right now, M.I.A. is the Brit with the best rhythm.
Neroli, waves and sunshine.
I spent a few summers on Fire Island when I was little, the volleyball net at the Pines marking the nude beach–suits vs. skins games all day except high tide–and I’d come home with a pail full of seashells, a permanent sunburn and sand everywhere.
This scent has that freedom, wind and ocean spray and surf and naked skin, with a lovely base of top shelf zinc tanning lotion.
Projects two beach blankets over, and lasts til the sun goes down and the disco starts.
“Somewhere there is a gay man with a magic lamp and two wishes left.” -Jerrod C.
Capucine means nasturtium in French–I grew them in my little garden when I was a girl–and there’s a hit of that weird woody spice note at the opening.
Mostly though, I get fancy tea-shop–jasmine oolong and marzipan cakes–and dusty bakery musk in the air, with fresh roses on the cafe tables.
The dry-down lasts close to the skin all afternoon, a gorgeous elusive vanilla, with an Alice-in-Wonderland vibe–ruffles and cookies and riddles.
This sweet little song was a huge chart topper in France the same year.
Opening notes are a shot of booze spilled on a leather coat and violets and laaa, this stuff is crazy nice.
So smooth it slides all over the place, petals and pepper, dank then sweet, light then hard, feral metal musk heat-tempered in rosewater.
Modern magic, at an accessible price.
Lingers in personal space the whole day, sugar and leather on the skin, and fog and rain on the clothes.
This could be this generation’s Lolita Lempicka, a new twist on violets, and powerfully femme.
Seinabo Sey’s Pistols at Dawn also came out in 2015, and is just as dark and smooth.
(Paillettes are spangles, the dangling sequins on shimmering gowns.)
Fairy dust potion.
Seriously, this is what Tinkerbell sprays all over folks so they can fly.
My favorite L.L. bottle ever, filled with the most magical, silky, pink frosted liquid, scented with a light powdery version of the original.
This came out in 2001, but it’s worth nabbing second hand. The scent is lovely, of course–violets and aniseed and sheer musk–but the body shimmer feels and looks so amazing on the skin. (Especially dark skin! The only time I ever broke my no-perfume-in-costume rule was for the actress who introduced me to this beauty. She looked incredible under the stage-lights.)
I was the only kid who loved getting Good & Plenty licorice candy while trick-or-treating. Lolita Lempicka smells like they taste, so maybe that why I enjoy it so much.
björk has wings hidden somewhere.
Sea Buckthorn and Gooseberry
(This one came from Russia. Cool stamps.)
The gooseberry hits with an acid bite at the back of the throat, but fades quickly into a fruit compote with creamy sea buckthorn syrup. Ends on a solid wood base of bathroom potpourri.
Luna came out with this one (also Russian) in 2018, too.
Well made, but buttoned up as tight as an adjunct professor at Brigham Young.
Nice not quite ripe pear on top, pale floral musk and modesty on the bottom, with yards of projection for two hours.
Sadly, I get none of the tea or bamboo that would give it depth or interest.
This young woman is both talented and interesting.