Green Lover

A bit of clematis leaf and sample vial, with Lolita Lempicka promo card featuring a waterfall over green mossy rocks.

I never really thought of Shamrock Shakes as sexy, but daaamn–this is a guy’s gourmand done right.

A milky mint confection spiked with orange flavored gin–(Tanqueray Flor de Sevilla is a pretty nice one)–that elevates it out of after school detours for fast food and into high end pastry shops with a liquor license.

Lolita Lempicka’s trademark syrupy-yet-powdery vanilla musk, here turned into sweet green teasing shadows, drifts in and out of intimate space all day, whispering invitations to drinks and dessert.


Lolita Lempicka

Lavender Lolita Lempicka apple bottle pressed with white and gold ivy, and gold stem cap from 1997. The new bottles are plain faceted glass, but supposedly the fragrance hasn’t been reformulated.
And a mess of star anise pods.

I grabbed this one this morning, a test to see how much I’ve recovered–and I definitely pass!
Maybe not with the highest marks–I had to douse myself in it to get everything I know is there–but my schnozz is working, and sniffing this one is like hugging an old friend.

The top notes all come through, a gorgeous thirty-minute-long opening: sweet anise and violet powder blast, with a bit of cool green ivy to keep it wild and fey.
Then the middle blooms, a foot off the skin for three hours: licorice candy, dessert cherries in almond amaretto, dusted with iris flour so everything stays light.
Settles soft, to clothes and hair until the wash: vanilla ice cream, the almond end of tonka, and sugar musk, a brush of vetiver to keep it dry.

Delicious, iconic.
The lighthearted gourmand that exchanged Angel‘s chocolate edible underwear for lace fairy wings, and made fantasy haute couture affordable.
I wore it for a decade.

A dish full of black twists and pink and white Good & Plenty. Licorice was the first thing I could taste, after Covid-19.


The album Surfacing came out the same year–


Full sized pumpkin (pepper?) shaped bottle filled with red amber eau, capped with crystal winged fawn.

I’d enjoy this as cake frosting–buttercream vanilla with peach nectar and orange extract, and L.L.’s signature licorice footprint on the bottom–but it’s way too sweet for me to wear, and too young.
I miss the cinnamon bite of L de Lolita, that lifted the same citrus vanilla notes out of ingenue debut giggles and pushed her to center stage billing, full on drama queen belly laughter.

But if you’re wanting a pure gourmand, this one will make you crave iced pastries for hours, and fill a room with longings for dessert.
Just make sure you’ve got a good dentist.


Mon Eau

mon Eau
Ivy motif sample card and spray.

This one bridges the gap between Lolita Lempicka L’Eau en Blanc and the original first scent, but somehow loses the vibrancy of both parents.

Pretty mixed-up berries in the beginning that eventually decide they’re black currants, then aniseed hits with the usual LL violet-iris notes before it settles in close with pleasant white musk and sandalwood powder.

A good bridesmaid perfume.

This is a lovely “first dance” wedding song–

Minuit Noir

LL licorice
Black and gold Lolita Lempicka apple on a pile of licorice all-sorts.

Sweet and evil.
Lolita Lempicka Minuit Noir will always be my witching hour perfume–my house reeks of it on Halloween.

Sugar spells and dark iris magic, wicked candy licorice and violet patchouli brew.
It’s nicely powdery, keeping the juice intriguing–fey dust rather than cloying syrup.

Lasts all Samhain and charms sleeves for days after.

Lolita Lempicka Eau Légère Pailletee

Large frosted lavender Lolita Lempicka bottle with silver embossed ivy, sitting in a pile of pink and white Good & Plenty.

(Paillettes are spangles, the dangling sequins on shimmering gowns.)

Fairy dust potion.
Seriously, this is what Tinkerbell sprays all over folks so they can fly.

My favorite L.L. bottle ever, filled with the most magical, silky, pink frosted liquid, scented with a light powdery version of the original.

This came out in 2001, but it’s worth nabbing second hand. The scent is lovely, of course–violets and aniseed and sheer musk–but the body shimmer feels and looks so amazing on the skin. (Especially dark skin! The only time I ever broke my no-perfume-in-costume rule was for the actress who introduced me to this beauty. She looked incredible under the stage-lights.)

I was the only kid who loved getting the little boxes of Good & Plenty licorice candy while trick-or-treating. Lolita Lempicka smells like they taste, so maybe that why I enjoy it so much.

 This is a sparkly song.

L’eau en Blanc

blanc edgy
Sunlight and shadows through a frosted and white version of the Lolita Lempicka apple, with pink juice–one of LL’s prettiest bottles.

A pretty lover you grow out of quickly.

Baby pink powder puff of irises, maturing slightly to raspberries and flirty cherries, with an almost clashing note of L.L.’s signature green violets, just to make one stand up and take notice.

A long finish with hydrangea musk and artificial vanilla, and a touch of regret.

I liked it for a while.


Fleur Defendue

fleur defendue edgy
Lolita Lempicka apple bottle in yellow and gold.

Opens loud and long with green violets and absinthe, then hovers jealously over the skin with almonds and cherry musk for hours.

The wormwood coats the almonds, making them weird and witchy, with long bitchy fingernails.

Alluring, but odd.


Here’s a fun cover of one of my favorites, also a bit odd and bitchy.

Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin

LL Au Masculin
Charred tree stump, with mini lavender L.L. Masculin log shaped bottle.

This guy can dance, and knows how to choose a drink for someone else based on what shoes they’re wearing, but he’s got a dark gleam in his eye, and won’t hesitate to get you drunk.

Opens with Sambuca–aniseed liqueur–with a touch of absinthe to make it herbal, then gets almondy with an amaretto chaser for happy hour. Sandalwood tones the sweetness down, then the evening ends on smooth and smoky vanilla single malt scotch.

You let him take you home.

One of my favorites from Lazaretto. Definitely not smooth.

Fleur de Corail

My well worn pale aqua sea-glass heart shaped bottle, with white coral charm in pink sand.

A beach wedding.
Opens with grapefruit, sugar and a silver spoon, then the frangipani* kicks in.
Waxy flower leis, festoons of them everywhere, sweet and heavy, lovely, but overdone.
The bride carries orchids, but you can’t smell them.

Hours later there’s breezy musk on dunes, and driftwood drying in the sun. The next day, an odd amber citrus still clings to the skin, like sand in unexpected places.

*(Does anyone else think “fancy-panties” when they read the word frangipani?)
(Only me?)
(This is awkward now.)


This is NOT a wedding song, even with the deceptively easy beach vibe–