Paradiso

A silver capped bottle with a peacock on the back labe, and a green and blue peacock feather.

TokyoMilk #19 – Magnolia, Jasmine, Sheer Citrus, White Musk

Too skinny for the ingredients.
A musky white flower concoction with peacock branding should be big and voluptuous, and Paradiso is at most a juniors size 6.

*

Thin Lizzy’s guitarist does some sweet solo stuff–

Azzaro 9

azzaro 9A messy bouquet of flowers, the kind you’d hand pick as a child and bring home to your mum. Wildflowers crowd in with lilies, spills of wisteria, a stray carnation, a random rose from the neighbor’s yard, yet vague–no single bloom stands out as the star.
Awkwardly maternal, in a “Very nice, dear,” kind of way.


Another awkwardly maternal one that came out in 1984. I remember desperately wanting that silver and black dress.

Fire Island

Fire Island 2
Bond no.9 samples with royal blue foil bonbon wrapper, and sunny orange bottle cut-out test paper, on vintage map of New York coastline.

Neroli, waves and sunshine.

I spent a few summers on Fire Island when I was little, the volleyball net at the Pines marking the nude beach–suits vs. skins games all day except high tide–and I’d come home with a pail full of seashells, a permanent sunburn and sand everywhere.

This scent has that freedom, wind and ocean spray and surf and naked skin, with a lovely base of top shelf zinc tanning lotion.

Projects two beach blankets over, and lasts til the sun goes down and the disco starts.


“Somewhere there is a gay man with a magic lamp and two wishes left.” -Jerrod C.

Capucine

capucineCapucine means nasturtium in French–I grew them in my little garden when I was a girl–and there’s a hit of that weird woody spice note at the opening.
Mostly though, I get fancy tea-shop–jasmine oolong and marzipan cakes–and dusty bakery musk in the air, with fresh roses on the cafe tables.

The dry-down lasts close to the skin all afternoon, a gorgeous elusive vanilla, with an Alice-in-Wonderland vibe–ruffles and cookies and riddles.


This sweet little song was a huge chart topper in France the same year.

J’adore

jadore edges
Teardrop mini bottle with bitten peach. I’ve always been fascinated with the wire wrap around the neck of the bottle–a bit like the gold dzilla necklaces worn by Ndebele women.

Opens with fresh peaches and jasmine that gets mixed into a fruit salad and white flower arrangement–in an elegant Martha Stewart catered way.

Lasts for three hours at arm’s length, with musk anchoring a bit of rose on the skin for several more.

J’adore was special when it came out in 1999, but it’s kind of everywhere now, so it seems generic.


(In 2011 Christian Dior launched a massive advertising campaign with the iconic video featuring Charlize Theron and this song, to huge success.)

Eclat

eclat edgesThis opens with a premier class take on Victoria’s Secret Love Spell, then it melts into amber-y burnt sugar, all business with extra legroom.

Sweet and enjoyable, (and extremely long-lasting) but too young for me.


Moby remixed Slipping Away with Mylène Farmer, a French pop singer from Quebec in 2006. It’s equally sweet.

 

Tommy Girl

tommy girlI love this one on everybody else–fruity fresh honeysuckle and minty citrus–but it sits all wrong on me.
Opens sweaty on what should be sweet blossom, the lemonade is bitter–almost pithy–and the roses dead. The pretty woodsy floral base is bleachy-screechy and sinus headache inducing–though I get compliments as I ask for aspirin.

If I can make it through the first two hours, the drydown is lovely.


Jewel’s biggest hit topped the charts the same year.

Ysatis

ysatis edge
Cut crystal Ysatis mini bottle with skyscraper lines and pyramid top, filled with dark amber liquid.

Opens with lemony ylang-ylang, then settles to aldehydic woods and tuberose with some animalic dank notes that keep it from being too sweet.

Strong sillage, and long lasting, but it does seem from another time, when perfume focused on gravitas and established style. Now the trends seem to aim for playfulness and creativity.

This might have more personality on a gentleman, today.


Ysatis came out in 1984, and I discovered short-haired girls.