Rebecca Minkoff

Understated women’s power suit perfume, suitable for everything from leather pants to silk tweeds.

Smoky cardamom scented tobacco and green banana, with enough jasmine to give a feminine twist on the patchouli and tonka bean backbone.

Stays in personal space for a few business hours, longer on clothes.
Nice, but she’d command more respect if she were louder.

Sea Buckthorn

L’Ome is the Durance en Provence eau de toilette line for men. This one is a great OG barbershop cologne.

Argousier (sea buckthorn) on top, with that creamy lemony note lasting for a half hour over alpha herbs and lavender.
Wood fills in the bottom, cedar with some masculine sour sandalwood on the skin.

Old school gentleman–a bit of a curmudgeon but sweet underneath.

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Cabotine

In the summer Cabotine is an overwhelming mess of spicy flowers; in cold weather it becomes cassis tea with honey.

Heavy carnation, gingery white florals and huge green hyacinth are eye-watering in the heat, with a whopping dose of black currant on the top and bottom giving a bite of acidic fruit in the beginning and an angry cat scratch at the end.

But in the winter, everything blends into sweetness, berries and nectar and soft musk, cheerful and petal soft–and worn under clothes, the sillage relaxes to an enjoyable comforting layer.
Lasts til morning on skin, and til spring on fabric.

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Cabotine came out in 1990. So did Sinéad O’Connor’s iconic cover of Prince’s “Nothing Compares 2 U.”

Fruitchouli Flash

A spontaneous date in a bottle that starts flirty and sweet, and ends dirty (in the best way.)

Comes in with a two pound bag of Haribo peach gummies and an armload of white roses that soon get rogered up by earthy patchouli.
Brash and loud, it gives you a laughing good time, and hangs out til the next morning.

And I’d call it “genderful” rather than “unisex,” sliding all over the spectrum–from sugary feminine florals to blunt masculine woods–rather than staying in some safe place in between.

Fun.

Golden Delicious

(I love TJMaxx flanker gift sets!)
This is the most refined of the Be Delicious line that I’ve sniffed so far.

A slice of fresh apple, soft flowers and a bit of plum sauce, that quickly go green with lily-of-the-valley for an hour–the usual DKNY floral fruit teacher’s fare.
Later when the woods give the base some backbone, it gets sophisticated–turns out the substitute has a master’s degree in postmodern design.

Lasts through afternoon study hall in personal space.

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Another Golden that’s delicious.

Angel Nova

How much do I love this?!

Starts out cool and syrupy, like raspberry sorbet, then slowly melts into gorgeous sugary rose–the kind they make Turkish delight from–with a woody base tempered with benzoin.

The rose and the woods are linear, but there’s a slow progression to the fruity notes. They start tart and crisp and fill-the-room gigantic, but they sweeten through the day, softening to arms’ length pink floral candy, and end in the evening with a marvelous berry flavored cola on the skin.

Definitely a shift from the iconic patchouli-chocolate-caramel of the past thirty years, but this New Angel and Eau Croisière is a refreshing direction, and I’m totally ready for it.

Be Delicious NYC

Another from yet another flanker gift set–DKNY has put out at least six dozen different Delicious apples in the past two decades–this one seems to be a light version of the original.

The guy says it smells like watermelon. He isn’t far off; the top is cucumber with some citrus and white flowers.

I get the apple-for-the-teacher and lily-of-the-valley of the 2004 version, but they feel lighter, letting the violet powder and dusty rose come through. The same classroom ruler woods on the bottom, but this time she lets the class out early.

Une Rose de Kandahar

This one makes me feel like I’ve painted gold leaf on my wrist.

Opens with luxury spice and roses, and an almost gourmand roasted almonds and dried apricots.
The cinnamon eases into cured pipe tobacco and the roses dry to sweet musky petal dust; they stay at arms length for hours, until ambergris and patchouli make it all wet and shiny again, for the rest of the day.
At night, the roses come back, a soft glow on the skin with a breath of chocolate woods.

In this chilly weather it’s ridiculously rich, and I’m always aware of it, like bracelets that jingle with movement.
I can’t wait to see what it’s like in the summer.

Be Delicious Rio

Happy hour on ladies’ night.

First splash is apple vodka and passionfruit flavored whipped topping, then calms down to sweet orange flowers in personal space. Fades after two hours, leaving a smudge of benzoin on the skin.

The ending sweet resin is rather nice–if it had more depth, this one would wear well for date night, not just drinks with the girls.

(I’ve never been to Rio, sadly. Does it smell like Gala Apple Stoli?)

Artist

Soft solid that goes on with sugared grapefruit and sinks into the skin with lovely green forest woods. The cedar pushes it to the masculine end of unisex, but the musk at the end is sweet.
Lasts a good three hours an inch off the hands.

Comforting and friendly. A great one to give as a gift.

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My favorite art inspired song.