Paradise

paradiseOpens with a big splash of blood orange juice that softens down to ginger-ale zing, then settles to soft wet musk on the skin for a few hours.

There’s a slight note of feet on the bottom that wants to be warm woods, but doesn’t have the right balance.
This one teeters between nice and meh for me–a sportsball guy could pull this off better than I could.


You can’t beat the original, but this cover of Sade’s Paradise roughs it up on the edges in a good way.

Omnia

nutmegGinger and peppercorns that sweeten to ground spices, powdered cardamom and nutmeg, drier than dry toast, to the point that it makes me thirsty–almost itchy.

Half an hour in, the almonds warm up, and it gets creamier. A bit of floral musk makes it more palatable, and then the dry down is lovely, sandalwood with a hint of sweetness.

Stays politely in personal space for most of the day. Pair with a two liter drinking bottle.


Light Blue Pour Homme

light blue pour homme edgyThe same lemon and white musk, but all the sharp herbs and incense smoke make it oversexed.

The glory of the female version, and why it’s such a powerhouse, is the ace quality that strips away any overt gendered invitation.

So by omitting all the sweet notes, the masculine edition just becomes another passive aggressive drink garnish at the patio bar.


Kanye West put out Stronger the same year. It was both as synthetic and popular.

Calycanthus Brumae

Calycanthus Brumae edgyNice for a guy who wants people to believe he just bathed.

Opens with a bit of watery citrus, then the spice-bush kicks in, smoky sweet and earthy–kind of nutmeg-ish with frothy lime flowers–and then ends with ginger tub cleanser.

I bought this one in my quest for calycanthus scents–here the sweet-shrub is overpowered by the bergamot notes and comes across soapy.

It’s nicer on clothes.


This cute song also came out of Italy in 2012.

Artisan Acqua

Artisan Acqua edgyA priest on vacation in the tropics.

Out of the bottle–beaches and mild fruit cocktails with coconut water.

It quickly turns to soap, some kind of retro  ’70’s bar of herbal glycerine that takes over the whole tiki bar.
There’s some patchouli and musk at the bottom, like a feeble attempt to dirty it up, but it’s just too clean.

Perfect on Sunday.


My favorite bar song.

Tomato

tomato edgierTomato by Demeter is every urban gardening hipster chick sunbathing topless on the roof. Stray honeysuckle and dandelion weeds are overtaken by crushed tomato leaves and the great red globes ripening on the vine. A smudge of pollution and sweat and dirt sticks to the skin, but doesn’t stop the invasive Organic Goddess green.
I’d worship her in the summer.

Forget what you think about “cheap” perfumes and buy the big bottle–it makes a wonderful room spray, too.


Willie Nelson and Cyndi Lauper singing a Gershwin duet is my favorite thing today.