Zoa

zoa edgyStrange peaches, and weird retro purple flowers–violet and iris à la Lolita Lempicka–with woody cherry stones on the bottom.
It’s very chic and memorable, yet a bit poisonous, too.

Not one for a younger woman, this one needs experience and half a lifetime of secrets to pull off.
Elegant elbow length sillage, and lasts until the bath the morning after.


Zoa came out in 1992, when Vanessa Paradis came out with her third album and this hit.

No 3

no 3 edgyI love this one–sunshine and sky and water.

SG79 STHLM’s No 3 has a lot in common with D&G’s Light Blue, but sweeter, stripped of the chemical musk, and ginger replacing the artificial roses.
Lemon zest opening with green apples to the core, and the prettiest cedar at the base.

Lasts two hours a few inches above the skin, and the afternoon on clothes.


My favorite folk duo, also from Stockholm.

Jimmy Choo L’eau

Ballet pink cut glass Jimmy Choo mini bottle in prism light, casting sunburst shadows.

Red Zinger herbal tea–

Sparkly hibiscus and rosy fruit with an earthy finish–a great summer splash for a young woman.
(Or an older one who is nostalgic for 1970’s jello salad, quiche and carrot cake.) (Me.)


A raspy Clash cover of another Jimmy.

Cheshire Cat

Cheshire catThis one is from Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Mad Tea Party collection, and it’s rather nice.

The grapefruit opens more floral than fruit, especially with the lavender, then chamomile makes it sweet. The musk is subtle, paired with the currants, and soft, like the dusty bloom on dark berries.

I’d love it in a bath oil.


The Pogues aren’t from anywhere near Cheshire, but this is great.

Coach Platinum

coach platinum edgy
Ad peelie with flasks on the hood of a black car, Empire State Building in the background.

Not bad, in a modern Town & Country way.
His girlfriend got it for him when they were on spring break last year. His mother thinks it’s nice too.

Pineapple and sage on the top, sandalwood and rented groomsman’s tuxedos on the bottom.

Edit – 5/11/21
Lots of pineapple in the store, almost cloyingly sweet, then settles down to the generic leathery vanilla woods that seems to be the base of all dude cologne right now.
I wish the sage notes I got from the peelie came through more.


I am never not in the mood for this song.

Angel Eau Croisière

angel croiserie filterAirport duty-free testers are disgusting–those germs have survived tropics and tundras from all over the world–but this one was well worth the risk.

Angel “Cruise” opens loud and proud with delicious fresh mango that lasted the trudge to my gate and through fancy class pre-boarding–I was worried I would be THAT seatmate, who gives everyone in the row a headache with their perfume–but it settled nicely to a few inches off the wrist with pink grapefruit ice by the time I managed to cram my bag into the overhead compartment.
Somewhere over Iceland the sorbet gave way to Angel’s signature caramel patchouli, without the amber musk that I usually find cloying.
It was gone when we landed, and my connection too short to hit the shops for a bottle of my own.
Next trip, maybe.


Here’s some nice light jazz that’s actually wonderfully filthy.

Rush

rush edge
Tester vial with red lid on Gucci Rush ad featuring a sultry model and boring red plastic box “bottle.”

Light and lovely and ridiculously fresh, but with an odd plastic-left-in-the-sun note. Peaches in cellophane and patchouli and warm spice, with a hit of wax rose petals and white flowers, ending on a very comforting vetiver.
Projects like a summer garden with vinyl flags and lasts twice as long on clothes than skin.

Pity about the cheap cassette tape bottle, though. That’s just a travesty.


This was the biggest pop song in Italy in 1999.

Lost Cherry

lost cherry edge
Grainy pic of cerise Lost Cherry photo, decant vial and my reading glasses, which I lose at least once a day.

Well named–there’s absolutely nothing virginal about this stuff.

Maraschino stem teasing over a powder puff of musk, cyanide sweet foreplay for hours, ending in a melting dish of Ben&Jerry’s Cherry Garcia ice cream.
Pure sex.


This song is also pure sex.